Layers of hospitality: the culinary craft of Ugo Fontanone
In the world of hospitality, the idea of “layers” is more meaningful than it may seem. Not just in cooking -where a dish like a stuffed onion or a well-executed risotto is literally made of layers – but in the experience itself. Behind every good moment at a restaurant, there are layers of work, skills, relationships, and memory. When all of that comes together, hospitality works.
This layered approach perfectly defines the story and work of Ugo Fontanone, who has been at the helm of La Taverna di Frà Fiusch in Moncalieri for over thirty years. A solid yet eclectic figure, Fontanone has navigated culinary trends without losing touch with his territory, all while building a personal culinary language that blends tradition with international flair. It’s not unusual to find him either in the kitchen crafting a new dish or managing high-profile catering gigs. One of the latest? Catering for Martin Scorsese, during the director’s visit to the National Cinema Museum in Turin. “I got to cook for him directly, between one event and another. It was truly an honor — something I’ll never forget,” says Fontanone.
His restaurant (named after a legendary character, Count Parpaglia, known as Frà Fiusch) has become a reference point over the years. Not just for the quality of its food, but for a culinary identity that doesn’t chase trends, but focuses on authenticity. The bagna cauda is on the menu all through autumn, treated as a cornerstone of Piedmontese food heritage. Cauliflower, not the most photogenic ingredient, is turned into an elegant flan, served with anchovies. And then there’s the “Mc Trip”, a fun, crunchy dish of fried tripe served like chip, surprisingly popular with kids and adults alike.
Fontanone’s cuisine is also about clarity. When he serves shrimp with chickpea cream, he doesn’t call it “hummus.” “You can write ‘hummus’ if you want, but this is a chickpea cream. Do we care about what it is, or what people want to call it?” It’s a principle that runs through his entire approach: authenticity over marketing. And it works — especially now that so many restaurants are more focused on storytelling than substance.
For this winter season, Fontanone has contributed a selection of recipes rich in memory. One is his pumpkin, amaretto, and blue cheese risotto, already featured in the past and brought back as a link to what has been. Then there are the desserts, a long-standing but lesser- known passion: custards, zabaione, and cakes that evoke family memories and transgenerational comfort. There’s also a reflection on time in his cooking. These days, it often feels like the seasons are vanishing , but they still appear, clearly, in Frà Fiusch’s dishes: from the autumn mushrooms that filled the dining room in September and October, to the stuffed onion, a dish that perfectly symbolizes the layered nature of cooking and hospitality.
Anyone who works in hospitality knows how much foundations matter. The setting can change, the menu can evolve, but people make the difference. It’s a simple concept, often forgotten. Fontanone proves it, consistently: even when the variables change, the outcome remains solid. Because whether you’re working with cauliflower or foie gras, what really counts is having a clear vision and a steady hand. The rest is just surface.
